On the south-eastern
tip of Sicilia, practically as far as you can travel on land before you
must inevitably fall off the cliff edge and start a long swim towards Malta, there is a
prominent headland. As you drive down the coastal road towards your
destination there are no tantalising hints, no tiny glimpses, not even a
suggestion that you are going in the right direction; not until your GPS
says you are only a few hundred yards away.
And then ... !
POW !
... the castle practically leaps onto your bonnet. The wow factor of
turning the corner and suddenly seeing this magnificent building with
little or no warning is absolutely immense.
At first sight Tafuri
Castle looks incredibly majestic and very old, and it has proved extremely
difficult to date the building and the adjacent tuna cannery with 100%
accuracy. Despite some aspects of its appearance hinting at a much older
construction, perhaps as early as the mid to late 1800s, the predominance of
Art Nouveau
stylistic embellishments actually points to a probable date in the late 1920s or
early 1930s. The best evidence we have unearthed so far indicates
a completion date towards the end of 1935. The delicately coloured stone from which
it is built was quarried on Isola delle Correnti (The
Island of Currents) which sits
literally on the southern tip of Sicilia 4 miles away, and the architect who
designed the castle was Saverino Crotti from Florence.
A view from the original architect's
drawings -
ABOVE
.
The bay below
the headland upon which the castle is constructed faces almost
directly southeast and it is very sheltered from the prevailing
winds by a large island a little further out to sea on the same
axis. The high, steep sided cliffs directly behind the bay to the
northwest, shield it from winds from that direction, and so all that
was required to convert the bay into a very safe harbour was the
construction of a small breakwater and a slipway. To this day the bay
is still used for mooring luxury yachts and small boats of all
shapes and sizes.
Tuna
migrates into the warmer waters of the Mediterranean from the cold
Atlantic Ocean for part of the year and when the season begins it
was, and still is, fished off Sicily "à
la mattanza". This is the
name for the traditional method
involving netting the huge fish by hand from boats which often have with no engines.
Once the nets have been progressively pulled tight and the huge tuna
brought up to just below the surface they are gaffed out of the water into the boats
-
LEFT
. The Italian name for this fishing technique translates as "the
slaughter", and the sea
literally turns red with the blood of the fish. At first sight this method
appears to be quite barbaric however it is actually a very
sustainable form of fishing, unlike modern trawling which
indiscriminately nets all shapes, sizes and species of fish in the
immediate vicinity causing death en masse for literally anything
caught in the net. Dolphins also die in huge numbers by drowning
when they are caught in the nets of conventional tuna
trawlers.
At
some point a local man, Signor Bruno di Belmonte, built a tuna
cannery in the bay immediately below the headland in order to tap
into the wealth the
über abundance of tuna
was creating, and long before the progressive decline in numbers hit
the trade he had made an absolute fortune. With his bank account
bulging at the metaphorical seams an appropriate status symbol was required so he set about
elaborately decorating the cannery in mock-Grecian style, and
finally he built himself the ultimate status symbol - a beautiful
mansion - on the headland immediately above the bay.
In the nearby village
which still has a church dating back to the 1500s, most of the 50 or so
inhabitants worked at the cannery, but the writing was on the wall for
both their livelihoods and the cannery itself. Massive over-fishing of the
Mediterranean (and all seas for that matter) has resulted in fish stocks
plummeting in a relatively short time - I first dived off Malta in 1980
and at that time the sea there was literally wall to wall fish, albeit
small species. After an
absence of about 25 years I dived again and I could not believe how barren it
had become in so few years. Cyprus too was much the same - on one dive to
100 feet plus in 2007 we counted a grand total of ten small fish in an
hour long dive. Inevitably with such a huge slump in tuna numbers the
cannery was soon suffering financial difficulties and eventually it closed
down putting
the locals out of work. The
di Belmonte family could no
longer afford the upkeep of the Castle and that too was eventually put up for
sale.
In either the 1950s
or the 1970s, depending upon which version of the story you read, along
came a Signor Tafuri from Pachino, the nearest town some three miles
northwest as the crow flies. With money he had carefully saved from the
successful pharmacy he had run for many years he was able to buy the Castle and
he set about transforming
it into a luxury hotel and restaurant. No expense was spared and it was
decorated throughout with luxury carpets, expensive paintings and suits of
armour. For a while everything went well and business up on the headland
boomed. It became the destination of choice for many
actors, celebrities andentertainers of the time and local
people would visit the hotel for special occasions such as weddings etc.
As a result the hotel was booked solid throughout most of the year and
even during the quiet winter months when other hotels saw a drop off in customer numbers Tafuri Castle did well.
Then in 1990 Signor
Tafuri died. Ordinarily this should not have been a problem but the
spectre of greed soon reared its ugly head as the relatives of Signor Tafuri
fought over who would inherit the Castle. Before too long no one would
pay the caretaker's wages and then when he left no one would pay for
security. As always happens when a property stands empty for more than a
few weeks the house was looted, squatters moved in, and before
too long anything with any value had been stripped out, even down to the
electrical wiring and plumbing.
And inevitably the house began to slide
down the road to dereliction.
RIGHT -
a view of Tafuri Castle on a postcard during its heyday as a hotel.
There seems to have
been little in the way of interest in the Castle since it fell into
disrepair though with an asking price in excess of five million Euros it
is hardly likely to be snapped up by the likes of you or me. One
interesting anecdote we uncovered whilst researching the Castles history
is that the wife of Formula One driver Michael Schumacher fell in love
with the place when she was visiting Sicilia in 2008. Clearly he didn't
share her enthusiasm though or I suspect our access would not have been
quite so easy when we explored the place in 2013!
It's a terrible shame
to see such a stunning property sitting neglected and empty and we could
not help but find ourselves comparing it to another beautiful mansion that
is also slowly decaying - Chateau Miranda in Belgium.
Below is a selection of the
photographs we took in and around Tafuri Castle and the adjacent
tuna cannery in June, 2013.
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Our first
sight of Tafuri Castle.
We wander up
the drive quietly.
Art Nouveau
embellishments abound!
The
principle lounge.
Imagine
waking up to this view every morning!
Looking down
off the patio onto the pool.
Looking
along the patio.
Time to
wander back inside again.
When it became a hotel
the owner gave it something of a Medieval feel.
From lounge
to lounge to restaurant!
The second
lounge.
TJ frames a
shot.
Covered ways
offer shade and an escape from the sun.
This
internal garden must have been lovely once.
Attention to
detail abounds.
In the
restaurant now.
Anyone for
pizza?
Today
children we will look through the arched window!
The tuna
cannery and harbour down in the bay below.
The main
hall.
Time to go
up methinx!
...and now
we will look through the round window!
Did Giggio
enjoy riding on his Vespa I wonder?
The cannery chimney with
its wrought iron entwined tuna emblem can be seen from so many
windows!
Looking
across the roof tops from the first floor.
Terracotta
chimney pots.
I wonder if
this tiny patio had hand rails at one time?
Room with a
view... and a balcony!
There's the
cannery again.
Mock
battlements.
The tower.
You can just
see the island from this bedroom.
Up, up up!
No wonder
she's smiling!
The roof
tops again from the second floor this time.
What an
amazing place to sit out.
Oh for 5.5
million and the lads from Auf
Wiedersehen Pet!
How inviting
does that sea look???
The tower
again.
Time to go
back downstairs once more.
One of the
few places where there has been a roof collapse.
The main
lobby.
M in pensive
mood, wishing for a windfall!
It might be
relatively modern but it is so tasteful.
A last look
back.
Time to go
do the cannery now.
The house
dominates the workers view.
Signor Bruno decorated
the cannery in mock-Grecian style. There are Ionic pillars and busts
everywhere you look.
Wandering
down the dock access road into the cannery proper.
A bust sits
a'top a building wall...
...and
here's another!
Talk about pretensions
of grandeur! Check out the marble freeze on the wall!
And we're on the harbour
front now. The building to the right was clearly a home for a
Sicilian Harry Ramp so we didn't do too much noseying about,
especially as we knew he was about somewhere from the smell of a
burning "rollie".
The cannery chimney,
looking suitably obelisk-esque, with the house in the
distance.
Even the
chimney has a statuette adorning it!
We think the little
platform atop this part of the factory was for a look out to be
posted to warn when the mattanza boats were approaching.
Sadly most
of the cannery roofs have collapsed now.
A forest of
roof support columns.
The house
dominates the skyline.
What must it have been
like for the owner to wake up and look down at his factory knowing
the money was pouring in? And what must it have felt like when it
all imploded after so few years of the gravy train?